Thursday, November 11, 2010

Japan - Day 9 - Tokyo, Kawaguchiko

Summary of itinerary: Travel to Kawaguchiko, dinner, onsen

8am - Rise and shine
Chop chop! Check out at 10am! As usual, we were slow and stepped out of the room after 10. Breakfast had almost ended. Nobody was as late as us! I had the same food as yesterday. Taking only the backpack, we deposited the luggage at the hotel and headed out.


About 10.45am - Travel from Kasai to Shinjuku
The plan was to take the Metro from Kasai to Kudanshita, then change take the Toei train to Shinjuku. From my homework, I was prepared to face difficulty getting around Kudanshita as I could not find a DIY route from the map. We shall see...


About 11.15am - Kudanshita Station 九段下駅
The goal was to change from the Metro Tozai line to Toei Shinjuku line. Different companies wor, they might not be friends!

Staring at the station map, my expectation was confirmed. We sought help immediately. Hope no caterpillar again ~_~ A senior staff and his kah kia (how come need 2 people?) escorted us towards the escalator. The senior instructed the junior to stop the escalator from the bottom. Then the junior ran up again and flattened a few steps. Ooo different pattern this time! Which have I not tried yet? Brother wheeled me on the escalator with me facing the back again and locked the wheels. He stood behind while the junior started the escalator and we moved down. While we were at it, nobody else could use the escalator. Luckily it wasn't rush hour! When I reached the bottom, the escalator was stopped again and I was wheeled out. All the while the senior was just watching... must be training new staff. Thanks guys!


About 11.25am - Shinjuku 新宿
The station didn't have a lift to bring us to the ground level. We had to use the lift of the building joined to it. Which meant it would be inaccessible during unearthly hours.

The bus terminal was located near the 西口 exit. It just looked like some illegal parking behind building and the ticketing counters looked like lottery windows with a black-faced woman behind the glass. There was no need for any advance booking as a bus departs approximately every 30min. We had something very important to do, so we skipped the current bus that was leaving soon and purchased tickets for the next departure at ¥1700 each. No round trip tickets for sale... I thought there would be :(. Round trip cheaper mah.

Now, for the very important thing.


About 11.35am - Yodobashi Camera ヨドバシカメラ
We were running low on memory for our photos. There's definitely not enough to go round for the rest of the trip. As our luck would have it, there's a Yodobashi Camera in Shinjuku and right opposite our current position! Cool! Buy memory card now!

Yodobashi Camera is a mega electronics store selling all things electronic that you can think of. The store is lit brighter than the sun at full blast and a Mandarin welcome message was looping the whole time, presumably targeted at the Chinese tourists. We did find what we needed, but overpriced. The same went for the smaller stores outside.

How? Scrimping on photos at Fuji was not an option. We'll think about it when we return.


12.40pm - Highway Bus to Kawaguchiko
High steps, narrow door and no way the driver could have provided assistance. Brother carried me in. Today was relatively warm with strong sunlight. Most of us let the curtain down.

Relieved to know that there's a screen showing the next stop to help the clueless tourist.
After a spin around office buildings, we passed through a toll gate and went on the Chuo Highway. Nap time~

I was on high alert the moment we entered civilization, looking out for our stop. We passed by the Fuji-Q Highland, an amusement park starring a once-tallest roller coaster ride, Fujiyama. Quite a number alighted here, although it seemed to be too late for an amusement park already?

We put on our gear in anticipation of cold weather, evident when the bus door opened. 凉啊!


2.32pm - Kawaguchiko Station 河口湖駅
Wow wow! 1hr 52min later, we arrived at our destination in the Yamanashi Prefecture 山梨県, on the dot!
The moment I got off the bus, it's 冷啊! The temperature felt well below 15°C, with wind on par with, or stronger than last night's. Without delay, I hid under shelter >.<

But this shelter had no doors, no use!

We ran over to the air-conditioned Visitor's Centre next door to minimize exposure and asked them to call our hotel for pickup. The lady's face very black ah. How come people behind counters with glass all have black face?

While using the very clean barrier-free toilet at the Visitor's Centre, our transportation arrived. Fast huh! Quick dash into the... it's a van! Ok lah, with a wide door, everything is easy.

The driver knew some English and chatted with us along the way. He pointed out Mount Fuji to us. Her peak was clearly visible! Well, we were going to see it the next morning right? So I shan't strain myself to see it.

Little did we know that it was the last time we saw the peak...


2.58pm - Fuji Lake Hotel 富士レークホテル
The hotel was only a 5min drive away.
Wow the most luxurious stay of the trip! It has to be, because it's gonna cost us ¥16,950 per head per night, onsen not included! That's 1.7x our Tokyo hotel's rate! But 1 dinner and 1 breakfast were included lah, so it's not that exorbitant!

Other guests having tea while checking in/out.
Where's ours?

Check-in procedures... they asked for our clothes size... why? Dinnertime is by 2hr slots. We preferred 6pm. The staff presented us with our ¥2000 voucher redeemable for almost anything in the hotel, and complimentary drink voucher for use in the cafe. Book the private onsen. Bad news! Our desired barrier-free swimming pool was fully-booked! Fortunately, the smaller tubs were large enough to hold 3, just that we couldn't swim in it. Cheaper also. Ok, it's ours after dinner! ¥3675 for 50min. So short... but Sister said it'll be enough if we couldn't take it. Japan's onsen is no joke!

There's actually a free public onsen if you don't mind. Accessible by stairs only, too bad.

And... very important... could they drive us to the bus terminal tomorrow?

Can? Yeah thank you!

To our room we went! Presenting the 西館, 12帖純和室 (West wing, Japanese room the size of 12 tatamis). Even the key was obiang. Physical key, not keycard, with a keychain bigger than the key to make sure you are aware of it.

Standing at the entrance, the room was separated from the doorway by a sliding door. The bathroom was on the left. Airpot on the right contained boiling water.

Cakes and tea set waiting for us to take a break.

Cushy sofa.

In case you were wondering where our beds were, they were inside the cupboard.

Dang! The bathroom was of the same size as all our other hotels. Couldn't they just make it a wee bit bigger for once?

Need water, but no cool water ley. We poured out 3 glasses of water and left them to cool. Should be drinkable when we return! As people who think it's a waste of time sitting around, we changed into our thermal wear for we were heading out.


4.06pm - Stroll Along Kawaguchiko
Hmm... let's take a look at the itinerary. There's lunch, which we missed, and now we should have taken the Yurasen Ropeway up to Tenjo-Yama Park Mt. Kachi Kachi and viewing the sunset now.

Standing along Funatsuhama Onsengai 船津浜温泉街, looking at the activities available.

Cool, fresh air and yeahhh this is what I'm talking about. Trees in flaming red and luminous yellow! I think we must have caught them at their prime. Well-done!
See that metal tower on the right, in the hill? That's the ropeway.

So basically in the vicinity, there's more hotels, a few shops, ferry ride, swan man-powered boat and the pavement. We went in the ropeway's direction, looking out for lunch.

Most of the eateries were either closed or unexciting. Not that I'm hungry anyway. And dinner's in under 2hrs.

Cheese cakes were common. I wonder what's the big deal? Not like they have cows here? We entered one of the shops. Their wares looked quite ordinary. Walked out empty-handed.

Look! Mineral water!

Not sure if I would be able to geton the the ropeway car, but let's check it out. I thought I had seen the worst since Kiyomizudera, but the Yurasen Ropeway was perched on top of a slope steeper with a greater gradient.
Uh oh! Even the station itself is out of bounds to wheelchairs! Accessible by steep, narrow stairs only. Obese visitors, you have been warned. There's nothing to stop you from rolling beyond the foot of the stairs.

Looking at the mountains ahead of a height. The sun had gone below the mountains. Fuji was to our left, but blocked by another mountain.

3 curious unidentified objects streaked across the sky, descending really slowly. Too slow to be meteors, but just make a wish anyway, just in case!
UFO? Brother said they were planes landing, but was the angle not too steep?

We went to the riverside, which was actually a giant carpark. All the tourists and buses that were here earlier were gone. Of course, it was all dark already and the air was chilly. The area was sparsely lit. Anybody out here in the street wrapped up with hands in the pockets looked like a potential mugger now.

Measuring the height of the water in the lake. I'm glad we were far from bank overflow today.

The brightest things around were the hotels.

It's only 5.10pm now, so we went for a walk in the tourists' traps. Affordable local wine. Nice or not one? Let's get one and find out... Take the 巨峰 grape wine since they plant grapes here.

Ok let's see the next shop... rock salt from Himalayas?? Uh... Lots of souvenirs... 馬油 products... stared for a long time and ended up deciding against it.

Cod fish snack packaged as a giant million yen note. Looked fun! But expensive neh...

Hey some stuff were up for sampling! Cooked and marinated hum, got some fishy taste. But the ikan bilis and scallops were a hit! We asked the lady boss, whose English was cmi, how to eat the scallops. Just eat with rice, room temperature. Buy!

Elise, Mt Fuji limited edition. Buy!

Blueberry cheesecake Kit Kat, so exotic. Buy!

I thought I wouldn't buy anything, but we ended up spending a bomb! Lots of local produce up for sampling. Walking deeper and deeper into the trap... Show you our loots later.

Super super cold now... temperature was 7°C! No wonder we had breath condensation. *Hooo...... ffffffff*


6.11pm - Kaiseki Ryori 懐石料理
We were so engrossed shopping that we were late for dinner. We arrived at the restaurant that was largely empty. We were ushered to our table in the far right corner, next to the window but of course it was too dark outside and too bright inside to see anything.

Our spread, waiting for us. Kaiseki, check!
Hot towel! Attack!

While the waiter explained how the dinner should be consumed, Sotong was blowing her nose out to taste better. Disgusting, I know, but it had to be done.

The menu detailing each course, just in case we didn't know what we were eating. The problem was, we didn't know what we were reading either!

Ok nevermind, just eat.

The waiter served us 食前酒, apple wine 林檎酒, a pale yellow drink. One sip only.

Ah, so many items here, let's dissect it.
On the left, was the 前菜. Recognizable items were arrowhead a.k.a. 慈姑 and sakura pork.
畳鰯黄身揚げ literally means "anchovy yolk fried". Not sure which item.
What's amazing was the item 雲丹焼, which was actually grilled sea urchin! I don't think I realized it at all.
細根大根, radish. Highly likely to be that white thing with green tip.
There's another item, 唐寿美, which is salted dried mullet roe. Can't find it in the picture, less remembering eating it! 
The 紅葉麩煎餅 should be that yellow maple leaf-shaped thing -_-;; I ate a fried leaf?!
松葉串 is referring to the skewer stick.
This one this one.
Were we supposed to eat it??
占地 means mushroom, so this is pretty easy.
むかご is a fleshy plant leaf. I assume it's the white, round thing with the prawn. And lastly common knowledge, 海老 for prawn.

Now for the middle dish, 小鉢. 胡麻豆腐 and 生姜 葱, self-explanatory.
This is 胡麻醬, fyi.

As for the dish on the right, we'll have a closer look at it later.

お凌ぎ. Resembled 3 ginkgo nuts on steamed fish and rice, but one of it was actually a disguised sweetened chestnut! Guess which one?

Sashimi 造り! But unfortunately, the fish didn't taste very fresh.

Forgot what! The chef should be upset with us. My guess is that it is the 先付, by virtue of elimination and the purple strips (that has been eaten) that could be chrysanthemum flower.

Our made-from-local-ground-water soybean milk was boiling! Drink it? No, it's for boiling our thinly-sliced Fuji Sakura Pork. Shabu-shabu, check!
It's odd eating meat doused in soybean milk, because apart from the soybean milk, I could hardly taste the meat. A pity, as the meat was tender. The other first was meat-flavored soybean milk. The flame dried up the soybean milk pretty fast, with "skin" floating up. Sounded like a particular Kyoto cuisine where people wait for the skin to float up and skim it off to eat the whole afternoon.

This course is western 洋皿. Fuji highland wild vegetables stew、containing broccoli, tomato, carrot and potato.
It's more sweet than salty.

More rice! This is the 釜饭, still cooking and we had to check with the waiter when it would be ready. Sotong was long past exploding. Just had a few bites.

煮物. 里芋進丈 is that yellow chunk, which could be sweet potato. 隠元 is the long bean, yuzu miso... where was it? Probably the dressing.

留椀, red miso soup and the 香の物 pickled vegetables.

Lastly, desserts to round off the meal. Kiwi fruit and konnyaku jelly. The jelly wasn't very nice ley.
Exploding, explodingly full! Surely this was no top-quality meal, but it's an unforgettable experience nevertheless!


8.15pm - Back to Room
Sotong and company simply cannot stop rushing. Now to rush back to our room because I had to finish bathing and be in the onsen within 55min!

Opening the door... surprise!
Our futons had been laid while we were out! Yup, traditional to the max, just for one night. The day curtain was opened and hey, that's our yukata!

Hey where's our 3 glasses of cool water?

Found in the protection of the cup cabinet.
And we had a new jug of cool water. They got the point XD

Now, we our wine needed a place to chill. Any space in the fridge? It's the high-tech type which would bill the drinks to your room automatically once you removed it, no use replacing the drink after enjoying the cold one. Wine available too, albeit at an exorbitant price and unsecured. Hehehe... out you go! And btw, we even brought with us a cucumber that we bought back in Osaka, but hadn't eaten yet -_-;; Put inside also.

Forgot what this was, but it could be the yukata's wrapper.

The lady's yukata when worn... just use your imagination.

O ya, I was supposed to bathe!

You have no idea how irritating the shower was. You lift the lever to divert water to the showerhead instead of the bathroom and it would fall right back. It seemed to be insisting that I take a bubblebath, but no time for that lah. I forgot what we used to make the thing stay... anyway it was frustrating!

While I was bathing, Brother recce the hotel and found the rooftop observatory to be inaccessible :( and the indoor viewing room pathetic :( Found this funny sign with bizarre English.
O yeah, I feel so hot and worthless, so I should go get a handwash.

Late late, fly out now!


9.10pm - Onsen!
We grabbed our yukatas and ran to the reception, with my dripping head wrapped in a towel. Onsen keys, we're coming!

Nobody was at the reception. They sleep? Ah there's a bell. The ding ding kind that looks like the Salvation Army one, but more pleasant.

*ding ding*

And a staff emerged from the office. Wow! We got our key. We were supposed to fly to the onsen already, but Sister couldn't help taking a photo of herself ringing the bell.

*ding ding*

Oops, sorry, we don't need help!

Here we were, the 富士山展望貸切風呂 [檜風呂]
Of course, we had to imagine our own Fuji in the dark :(

At the entrance, slope with handrails, good.

2 sets of shower.
The tub's filled, all ready for us. Wooden tub and floor, looked better than Taiwan's already.

Barrier-free toilet, cool!

Hmm... so the water has been heated from 26.8°C to 38°C. Seems like the source should be a "spring", sans the "hot". And the heating source was water, which means it has been diluted. This explained why there's still enough water to go round.

The mineral content of the water. Hmm... aiyah just soak lah! 50min ticking away! There's a clock on the wall so you can't pretend that you didn't know the time.

Brother and Sister bathed and then we popped into the tub. Hot! Made the Taiwan one look like a cheap imitation. Now we have a net heat flow from water to body. Didn't take long to adjust to the temperature. Just nice for 3 to sit in, no swimming of course. No rubber duckies, but there's the bathing scoop for entertainment. We opened the window. Should have no peeping toms, hor? Not that we were naked, but just worrying for those who might be. As expected, no sight of Mt. Fuji. Just cold air streaming in. Body hot, face cool. It would have been nice to be able to just float on my back and fall asleep.

Look, clouds were flowing into the room from outside! They just flowed continuously
until the room visibility was almost down to zero. Since air moves from high to low pressure, they must be clouds, no mistake!

I think I must have been soaking for at most 30min when I felt I didn't want to be in the water anymore. I want to be out right now now now. What? So fast? Nothing was amiss, but o well, just listen to my body lah. To think I was wondering how 50min could be enough just earlier in the day.

When the 50min time limit approached, my siblings too thought they should be out already to dress up. At this time, the tub started spouting cool water instead. Something to remind you that it's time to get out.

We got dressed (easy when it's a yukata!) and made sure we didn't leave anything behind. O look, there's mineral water and paper cups! That's what we left behind. *kop*

Got out late. Please don't fine us.


10.20pm - Back to Room Again
So did the onsen do any good? I guessed it did. My skin already felt smoother. Now to try their skincare... hehe.

Here's our loot as promised. What's the wine-opener doing there? Why, for our daily routine before retiring, of course!
Upper left, Complimentary Japanese desserts that we were supposed to enjoy with tea upon check-in.
Upper middle, "lake fish", as the tourist trap lady boss called it.
Upper and lower right, you can tell.
Lower left, cooked scallops.
And local grape wine to wash the food down with, cold and credits go to the fridge.

Posed with a selected item before 开张大吉!

Close up of the welcome dessert. Red bean inside.

Ahah, the paper cups came into handy now.
Fruity with very low alcohol content. It's fizzy, so does it count as champagne? Ok I know only champagne from Champagne can be called champagne!

The lake fish was really good back in the shop. Couldn't help eating it now. Sweet and savory mmm~~ Oops all gone! None to bring home. Should have bought more.

Drinking and watching tv. Apparently there's a channel customized for the Mt Fuji area. Hmm.


11.15pm - We Want MORE
The bottle ran dry. The night was still young and just that sorry amount of alcohol wasn't enough. Or just say that Brother still needed his daily beer fix. He put on his gear in anticipation of cold weather and went to the nearby convenience store.

Sure enough, the temperature was shiok at 2°C. What did we have here?
More Japanese wine, red this time, and umeshu as requested by Sister. There was quite an alcohol collection at that store and they were dirt-cheap. Paradise!

I guessed I was too saturated with water to have anymore, so I called it quits soon after.

Snuggled into the really warm and comfortable futon. Good night!

We managed to sleep so late again despite there being nothing to do. We must be the last to turn in in the whole hotel. It's so us!

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